Best quad anchor climbing reddit. I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. Always thought 7mm was standard. A friend and I learnt trad climbing with a guide, and he told us to avoid using static materials for building anchors, as it can be harder on the anchor points in case of a fall, which is more likely for them to fail. Every quad I've rigged up has had 2 opposing biners clipped through 3 out of 4 strands in the power point. Yeah this looks like the anchor I would use if I didn't already have a quad when I'm climbing something with bolts. it all depends on the route I am climbing and how the anchors are set up at the top. And yes we are scared of falling. However, the general The quad is one of the most discussed things on forums like this, and yet I almost never see them tied on actual rock. Post pictures and get feedback about the … A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. Seems that the equalization is far superior and with some practice it can be tied almost as quickly. There's a reason guides almost always use quads with bolted anchors: they're incredibly bomber at good bolted anchors and will handle the failure of one of the bolts reasonably well. Hey, I'm dabbling into the basics of climbing, and am wondering if it is (and why not) acceptable to establish a top rope anchor by attaching two quickdraws to the two top bolts? Learn what top rope climbing is and how to set up and clean a versatile top-rope anchor: the quad. Make sure the second knows how to safely clean your anchor and transition to the permanent anchor BEFORE they leave the ground. Reply reply Tom0laSFW • Hi I would like to build a quad anchor for some sport multi pitch. If a newer sport climber learns only one anchor I'd much rather it be the quad than a more complicated anchor that requires good judgment to safely execute. The locking draw For EVERY route you climb, consider the climbing/fall zone below the anchor, and adjust the limiting knots closer to the center point to cover only that much movement and reduce extension. It's essentially what you are trying to do. When you have some time, though, look into the debates about whether quads actually equalize things when a load is shifting. Using the quad as a cookie-cutter solution to anchoring is a classic example of failing to understand the relative sources of risk in climbing. I was taught how to do an anchor on a single sling with four carabiners. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally make a quad, use it as a self-equalizing bomber TR anchor. The double sling approach is convenient for routes with bolted anchors, where slings are not as much a premium as they are in multipitch alpine. Wall, San Francisco) Let me first start this with saying that there will be no definitive answer to the question of which is better, since anchor building is a situation-dependent art that requires all tools and techniques at one's disposal to work. Doing it this way eliminates any potential factor 2 falls. 8kn vs 12. The simple overhand isn't likely to unroll on a standard quad anchor, or a 3 piece equalized trad anchor, assuming everything is dressed properly. Super duper bomber. I consider a lone clove hitch completely safe, but you're not going to hurt Jun 21, 2023 · The best climbing carabiner is the one designed specifically for your intended use. I don't want a knot that reduces the strength of the rope catching a shock load if a bolt fails. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. Post pictures and get feedback about the quality of your anchor This is known as a quad anchor, it's a prebuilt anchor system. . The quad is already an over engineered anchor and you could build an equally strong master point or clove hitch anchor with half the cord and faster adjustability. There are many important considerations when building an anchor, but the for building the anchor it depends on the route I am climbing but I have and use everything from two quick draws to a quad. 5kn 7mm is between 13. (Beaver St. Read on to learn our key tips for the best multi-pitch anchor systems. Yes, it’s clear that the photo shows 3 strands captured and the illustration only 2. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. Absolutely the best institutional anchor. Instant top rope anchor. On bolted anchors I use a BD Dyneema 240cm knotted as a quad anchor. What's everyone take on this ? That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. (I didn't google the other one, in case you're wondering). 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. The advantage of this setup over an overhand on a bight at the master point is that it allows for self-equalization on more traversing routes. 9 dynamic rope. A collection and discussion plattform for all things concerning climbing anchors. I use the quad equalette everyday at work for top rope anchors. This post looks at five anchors that should be in your tool box. The quad is more versatile in alpine climbing environments, or probably anywhere one needs to build a triple+ redundant trad anchor. The 'Quad Anchor' is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is coming up from, as long as the route doesn’t wander. I love quad anchors. Is it safe to extend a toprope anchor like this with two slings? Im concerned about redundancy in the slings. Learn how to build a quad anchor, along with some of its primary uses. Anchor building is vital stuff if you want to stay safe and enjoy your multi-pitch climbing. Taking it slow, learning a lot. Boom. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. The quad is currently the best technique for building self-distributing anchors. Advantages - Distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. r/ClimbingAnchors: A collection and discussion plattform for all things concerning climbing anchors. If I'm setting up a top rope on top of a sport route, it's a pretty good solution. Learning how to clean sport anchors is very important, since many avoidable accidents and deaths happen this way. Bobby shows his favorite ways to build a top rope anchor on 2 bolts. I recently started climbing outdoors. The only time it doesn’t work is if there isn’t enough space to feed a bight of rope through the hardware. Was wondering if using the girth hitch is fine or if looping the sling around the anchor and tieing each loop end together with a figure 8 is materially stronger? Agreed, in my opinion the best approach is to learn a little from a book (like the climbing anchors classic) and then go with a guide to help cement the practical knowledge. I lead and put up the quad super fast and easy and then everybody else will take a pass on top rope before my wife goes up and cleans it. I don't recall the Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). Is the The cordelette I can chop it and make my own Personal Anchor System (purcell prusik)along with a carabiner. Then down climb back to anchor, tie in, and commence setting up to belay the second. The point of this, and OP's post is fine and safe in their usage, assuming good placements in good quality rock, is that not all situations require the anchor to hold a worse case factor two fall. Very appealing as a 6mm cordalette bomb is quite a bit more compact than it's 7mm equivalent, but seems a lot weaker (8. It's also way easier if you're climbing in larger parties. What kind of rope do I have to use? is a 5mm rope good enough? I wanted to use a 6 mm as recommended here but it wasn't available in my local climbing shop so I bought 4m of 5mm one. Edit: To add, for sport / top rope purposes, I would actually recommend a quad anchor tied from a cordalette over this anchor you've made. The goal is to combine the bolts at the top of the pitch into a single anchor system. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. " Carabiner set-up at the anchor master point? : r/climbing r/climbing Current search is within r/climbing Remove r/climbing filter and expand search to all of Reddit 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. If it's a critical point, I use a locker (or opposite and opposed non-lockers). Looking to add a sling to assemble a quad anchor for top rope climbing where it would be best to have extension over the (relatively rounded) edge. Stick to multi-pitch sport climbing with bolt anchors all the way up and you'll be fine. When it’s time to equip yourself with new carabiners, don’t just go for the most affordable carabiners. Quads make wonderfully quick and easy TR anchors on sport routes for other climbers to run laps on. Been playing around with trying to incorporate the climbing Quad anchor in Highline Rigging Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on multi-pitch rock climbs. Really depends on the scenario. Reply reply classygafasi • I'm reading through mountainproject forums, and every time the Metolius PAS is mentioned, two comments never fail to be made: "Yer gonna die!" and "just tie/clove hitch into the anchor with the rope. If 10 feet extension from each bolt isn't In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. However I've seen people make their anchor many other different ways. 4 things to consider: Is your anchor - Strong, Solid, Secure and Redundant. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. The master point in the anchor pictured isn’t redundant, which is probably why the quad or pre equalized is preferred. I used to feel the need to put lockers on everything when it came to anchors. 1. Redundant or Complicated? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment cycling_sender • Additional comment actions 524 votes, 62 comments. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. An additional and in my opinion slightly better anchor for 2 bolts is the quad. When making anchors my go to when possible is to girth hitch my anchor points and then build with a quad or equalette depending on how much extension I need. Would be fine for two bomber bolts (nothing else) but save yourself untying the knots after they’re weighted and just use the sliding x, or better yet two draws. That way, if I’m hitting the crag and burning top rope laps or climbing with someone that does lead, I can simply put it on my rack and clip it to the anchor bolts. Wrong sub but yeah I have a dedicated 7mm quad. The home of Climbing on reddit. There will be situations where a Cordelette should be used, hands down, as well as others where a Sliding X is perfectly acceptable (IMO), and possibly preferred. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. Otherwise there are more efficient systems. Also, you really can't build a non-extending quad/equalette/sliding x. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. Yeah this isn’t really any safer than a plain sliding x because the knots aren’t limiting extension, and is actually weaker because of the knots in the material. What would equalization accomplish in low load situations like top roping? A quad will be safe, but you should take the time to make sure each independent leg of your anchor can hold a truck. I use big bd lockers to grab the bolts and edelrid lockers with steel wear surface for the rope since it ends up getting tr'd on. I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. I have a 6mm cordalette that I leave tied as a quad anchor. This is the best way to clean sport anchors since you never come off belay. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Whether it's knots, direction of load, redundancy, no extension, or equalization, there is nuance to anchor building. Also, the locking carabiners aren’t necessary. Thoughts on 6mm cordalette use exclusively as a multipitch trad anchor? I'm extremely new to climbing outdoors so it's good to see different anchor types I'm curious what the grigri is for on each of these. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. It's also not the only way to anchor to two bolts and you should know more than one system before leaving the ground. I used to carry a pre-tied quad for bolted anchors in Squamish, but even that felt like overkill. I only set quickdraws on the anchor if I'm going to lower and someone else is going to lead. If you're gonna be climbing the route for a while on TR then use a quad. Climbing allows you to decide the level of risk you're willing to take in Sure, cordalettes are better for blocks (my bad, I missed that in OPs post), though you can still rig a rope anchor even in blocks (best way is to just replicate under the existing anchor with some new carabiners, but you can also untie/retie). If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. Practice at home before you go. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. Waste of mental energy, just use whatever is left on your harness. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. The quad is great in a few specific scenarios like if you've pre-tied it and know you're climbing a multipitch route with bolted anchors. 3). Anyone with some reasonable climbing experience is immediately aware of how overkill the quad-anchor fervor is - especially for top-rope applications. Get some pear shape Jun 30, 2023 · Climbing anchors, whether in trad or sport scenarios, are life or death. While it is the least secure, it likely won’t allow the rope to come out especially if you do not climb above the anchor when cleaning but still does not have the added security of all the other methods. We dive into the key principles of anchoring for rock climbing, and debunk some of the myths and focuses that some climbers cling to without understand the true reality of climbing anchors. After you've created your anchor, clip the rope to it, climb above your anchor and get in a solid full strength piece in good solid rock and clip your rope to it. I keep seeing the quad recommended for two bolt sport anchors, what makes it preferable to using two draws (with lockers, if you want to go all the way)? TR Sling Anchors. May 31, 2021 · Being able to build a climbing anchor with traditional gear, both safely and efficiently, is a fundamental skill for climbing in Squamish. trueI have some 6mm cord leftover from my quad anchor, can I use it to make a PAS? Blue Water / Mammut 6mx7mm cord, open cord (not a knotted loop). Can I get away with 8mm width on a Dyneema sling? May 31, 2021 · Being able to build a climbing anchor with traditional gear, both safely and efficiently, is a fundamental skill for climbing in Squamish. For example, with 2 slings instead of 1, with a cordette in a quad instead of a sling, or just 2 quickdraws (is the lase one somehow unsafe?) I'm curious about Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. Whether you're top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying secure. Even if it does I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. If failure of that biner does not lead to a full system failure, a non-locker is fine. It's a loop of 8 mill cord folded in half twice with two overhand knots each tied ~4inches from the center. As others suggested I would highly recommend more instruction. See full list on climbing. com Oct 29, 2023 · My suggestion would be start with a cordelette because it is cheap, durable, and versatile. Each anchor has pros and cons and knowing when to pull out each tool will take experience. Except the one on the left should move those knots closer to the master point otherwise they will become shook. Figured out how to setup a top rope anchor from a bunch of YouTube videos and went climbing for the first time outside. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. The difference in set up time between a quad and 2quickdraws is negligible, and the quad is a better TR anchor. Jerk: anchors are aid Equalized webbing anchors is always best, however if you have an established anchor point, on pretty much a flat wall, I don't see too much of a problem with it my only concern is that the biners don't lock. Cheap, can be used for bail anchors and I use them in the winter for V-threads. Now I usually build anchors from the rope and two non-lockers or quickdraws. Edit: by “same situation”, I was thinking more of the quad being the same. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. In which case, you won't need to bother with gear, or cordelettes, or equalettes, or anything else everyone is talking about. Edit: ok got it 5 mm is not enough for normal nylon cord :-) thank you! Oh, and make sure this chain anchor is actually rated for climbing. A nearby party was using a quad anchor and apparently, when Honnold saw the anchor, he pointed at it and said "that's a fucking circus. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. I If I am setting up a top rope anchor, in this case a quad, do I need locking biners or am I able to safely use non-locking biners? I usually use 2-3 alternating gates when setting up my quad and don't see a way that the rope could come out of any of the biners. In some contexts, the bolts on sport climbs are quipped with permanent draws you can use for an anchor. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve into the world of climbing anchors, exploring various techniques and setups, advanced methods, best practices, and even private guiding sessions to help you 1. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Look up a quad anchor. One critical aspect of climbing safety is the ability to construct reliable and secure rock climbing anchors. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have done that since. It kinda sounds like maybe it's intended for something else but you want to use it for a top rope anchor? Hey all, I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm looking for online. There are bomber looking trees in the back of your A buddy of mine was climbing in Yosemite somewhat recently and said Alex Honnold and (i think) Jimmy Chin rapped down past them. The best you can do with those anchors is ensure that the extend minimally on the chance that they fail. It can be better than other methods of equalizing in certain situations. This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing anchors, and even as threads or slung Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. Oct 15, 2021 · The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to pitch. 16 votes, 23 comments. This article explains how it can be used to rig two and three-piece anchors. You should watch all of your gear for wear, not just two quick draws. A quad takes 10 seconds to install and often makes working with the rappel anchor easier (nothing clipped into it). I prefer keeping the double fisherman's outside of the middle. Learn all about it here. Clove/8/Bowline/etc. " For the latter, I've tried to google it, but all you see is tutorials on how to tie a clove hitch. I can't remember what it's called, but if you want a fast, easy anchor, maybe consider a "quad (?)". 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. In which case, you’d need to use the “old school” method of untying and retying. Is this the actual first anchor you have ever made for a top rope scenario? Why start with trad pieces? For a lot of folks, learning how to build basic anchors off of installed anchor hardware comes first (eg quad, master point), as well as learning how to equalize two trees with a static line. Dec 1, 2023 · The idea behind sport climbing anchors is relatively simple. What are they doing? Is this a multi I use a quad every trip because we are all moderate climbers on single pitch sport routes with two anchor bolts. Keep it simple: just use a single sliding x with lockers at each anchor. Here's the quote: Avoid building anchors where no single component is strong enough to hold any potential load the climbing team could create. My question is: is it bad to leave it essentially permanently assembled in this configuration? I haven’t untied it in probably 6months Unjerk: Just preference & whatever scenario is best for your gear and location. Also, try to make your anchor efficient and Because if you are going to be smart and bring a quad for routes where two draws are less than ideal, why not use the quad all the time when it’s superior and takes no extra time to set up? Because often you can’t inspect the anchor from the ground, which is important if you’re using two draws and are top roping with a larger party. Portable overkill top rope anchor, tell me if this can be improved on Aug 16, 2021 · The way you build your anchor can also impact how comfortable you’ll be while using it to belay your partner up to you and whilst belaying them up the next pitch. This puts less force on each piece, therefore decreasing the likelihood of anchor point failure. I hear many (most?) of the climbs at potrero are. The rest of the cordelette I can build my anchor system and have 3 carabiners for it. If you're looking for a do it all, super safe sport/top rope anchor, then go for the quad anchor. Easier to extend for far pieces without having to use your runners. A couple of my thoughts. I use build one when I go sport climbing (takes like 60 seconds) and then just keep it all day for each climb. The I‘m going sport multipitching in a few weeks and was considering making a pair of quad anchors for me and my partner to just clip onto the anchor bolts so save building an anchor as we go. Get helmets. Nov 24, 2020 · The quick draw anchor is the least secure of all the anchors. I use a 5m cordelette of 8. It provides easy clipping at the top and I usually choose this for when all climbers will be leading the climb. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Oct 1, 2023 · Rock climbing can be an exhilarating and rewarding sport, but safety is paramount. If you move into multi pitch and alpine you may want to swap it for a 240 which is more compact. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. With an anchor setup on a sport climb, you can freely top rope the route (after leading it) or take multiple laps on lead. They make things super easy. jtgocira zrywp fwaati gtlbobr iemi jyn leapxe dxdn povk hfh