Wax beta climbing injury. I climbed my first 13a like a week after the injury.
Wax beta climbing injury. First session was a month ago WAX aka Alex @wax_beta • 534 subscribers • 1 video Decision scientist, rock climber currently recovering from ankle injury馃懀 Decision scientist, rock climber currently recovering from ankle injury馃懀 Focus: functional strength, technique, educational videos Goal: no injuries in 2023鈽猴笍 IG: @waxbeta, @waximus http WAX aka Alex @wax_beta • 573 subscribers • 1 video Decision scientist, rock climber currently recovering from ankle injury馃懀 WAX aka Alex @wax_beta • 516 subscribers • 1 video Decision scientist, rock climber currently recovering from ankle injury馃懀 Forgot to record the flash where I did a slightly different #beta when on the left Cheeto hold to get up to the small hold. The air is fresh, the grass the green, the water flows, and the rocks, well… the rocks are hard. com/ Sep 24, 2024 路 Discover the origins and basics of climbing beta, the essential knowledge that helps climbers navigate routes successfully. Training style: Lots of campus boarding, weighted pull-ups, loads of lock offs, etc. For context I have been climbing for just over 2 years. Apr 4, 2022 路 Hooper’s Beta Ep. We will go into a Proper Pain Protocol to help guide your process. Jared Vagy (of theclimbingdoctor. This inevitably means our bodies, and especially our fingers, are being pushed to new limits. We then have a full discussion about each of these topics. Rock climbing has become a professional competitive sport, many folks are being drawn to this sport with a parallel increase in the occurrence of sport-related injuries on both the natural rock and artificial walls. We offer a holistic approach to improving your climbing, from free educational resources to personalized coaching and cutting-edge programs designed to help you recover from injuries and avoid future ones. com/ Climb Injury-Free Has injury prevented you from climbing harder? Whether you’re a professional athlete or a novice climber, “Climb Injury-Free” is the guide that will teach you how to climb stronger and pain-free. It trains your beta-reading; you are forced to find the best, most efficient beta in order to approach and hold those positions. I am at a stage of my climbing (V5-6 level) where my finger strength is really holding me back, so have been following a training plan to improve this. It emphasizes on physical and mental challenges, one that often tests climber's upper and lower body flexibility, strength, endurance, agility, and balance along with mental Apr 4, 2022 路 Hooper’s Beta Ep. 24Intro: More elbow!! We keep it rolling this week as we take a look at the lateral elbow and dive into lateral epicondylalgia. WAX aka Alex @wax_beta • 576 subscribers • 1 video Decision scientist, rock climber currently recovering from ankle injury馃懀 2,380 Followers, 1,982 Following, 115 Posts - WAX aka Alex (@waxbeta) on Instagram: "Recovering from ankle injury馃懀 Focus: functional strength + technique, educational videos Goal: no injuries in 2025鈽猴笍 馃椇: @waximus" This one is tough to watch and nothing can prepare you for what happens to this poor guy's foot. Nov 26, 2019 路 From popped pulleys to torn labrums to tendonitis, these articles, podcasts, videos, and products can help you prevent and treat common climbing injuries. May 14, 2021 路 Hooper’s Beta Ep. See below for a video walking through the two methods to determine the grade or severity of a pulley injury. When an athlete is injured, there is so much more involved than just the mechanical change to the tissue itself. I started climbing again July, this time with a bit of chronic shoulder pain. 鈽濓笍 FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www. Feb 22, 2020 路 Hooper's Beta Ep. These injuries tend to present in the upper body and might be So let’s take a deeper look at each of those grading criteria so that you have a better understanding of the injury. Other friends nearly paralyzed because of inattentive belayer decking them. Our team of expert physical therapists specializes in treating rock climbing injuries, helping you get back on the wall stronger and Apr 27, 2022 路 I had PIP synovitis and tenosynovitis from August 2021 to October/November 2021. Be sure to read the show notes below for more details! What is Shoulder Impingement Syndrome (SIS)? SIS is any compression or impingement of structures around the glenohumeral joint that occur with How to Fix Lumbrical Pain (Lumbrical Injury, Pocket Climbing Injury) Hooper's Beta 136K subscribers 1. Of particular concern are overuse injuries (non-traumatic injuries). The smile beta is a deliberate step away from that outdated tone of aggression, toward an experience that rightly centers joy. See full list on gripped. Understanding common climbing injuries, how to prevent them, and effective recovery strategies can help climbers maintain their health and longevity. Mar 31, 2020 路 Hooper's Beta Ep. Beta for Your Body is for climbers looking for beta on injury prevention, female specific beta, beta for older climbers, Also physical therapy for climbers. thewallclimbinggym. The purpose of this is to look at the top reasons why climbers get injured so that you can look at yourself and see if any of these mistakes are applicable to you Apr 15, 2021 路 Climbing Injuries: Diagnosis, Treatment and Prevention Rock climbing intensively can lead to muscle strain, tendon and ligament injury. Allow yourself to grieve, be kind to yourself, surround yourself with good people. Normally my climbing sessions are structured so I take good rest within a session. Not my first bouldering on real rock but I haven’t gone enough times to feel comfortable. 84 How to Fix Lumbrical Pain (Lumbrical Injury, Pocket Climbing Injury) - YouTube Coach Alex Stiger interviews physical therapist Evan Ingerson, who specializes in climbers, about the proper steps to treat a climbing injury. Designed for climbers. Here's an interview with Eva Lopez all about climbing injury prevention and how she manages the risk of injury with her athletes. It’s a phenomenon generally referred to as “pulley thickening” in the medical field, though I prefer to call it “injury-induced pulley thickening” (or Jun 9, 2025 路 The full library of research-backed training and rehab blogs (with videos) created specifically for climbers! Jul 26, 2021 路 RISK FACTORS There are three main anatomical traits, or risk factors, that can make your FDP more prone to injury. Goodness knows, with our beloved public lands and National Parks under attack and our friends in federal agencies in constant upheaval, we hardly need more reasons to scream. Seen people in the gym accidentally get their achilles punctured through a carabiner and they're dangling from it upside down. The smell is distinctive, slightly sharp and complex. Had friends break legs taking a huge fall over a lip outside and slamming into the rock wall. But pushing the boundaries doesn’t come without a price. Hopefully, after watching this you will say to yourself "duh, that makes sense", but realize that a lot of Mar 20, 2015 路 This article from dpmclimbing. It’s actually kind of shocking it’s taken us this long… but in this video we’re going to tell you everything you need to know about how A4 injuries happen, how you can identify them, how to create an awesome recovery strategy, and of course how long it Oct 4, 2022 路 About the Contributors Dr. Dec 11, 2018 路 From popped pulleys to torn labrums to tendonitis, these articles, podcasts, videos, and products can help you prevent and treat common climbing injuries. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, having access to good beta can make a significant difference in not only reducing the risk of injury but also in improving efficiency and problem-solving skills. What is Lateral Epicondylalgia? (00:20) Lateral epicondylalgia is an irritation of the lateral elbow, in climbing this most often means the Apr 25, 2019 路 Antagonist training—working the muscles that oppose your typical climbing muscles—will reduce the risk of injury and increase climbing performance. And then, this V5. It highlights the importance of understanding anatomy and offers proactive steps for maintaining healthy fingers and wrists to enhance climbing performance. Jun 23, 2022 路 Same goes for sloth-climbing and drills like 3-second holds. Took maybe 2 days off, climbed easy shit for 4 or 5 days, then buddy taped and avoided anything that felt tweaky. Sep 8, 2017 路 To give you some information on avoiding injuries on pockets, here’s an article by physical therapy student Matt DeStefano from The Climbing Doctor Blog. Jul 7, 2022 路 150 likes, 15 comments - waxbeta on July 7, 2022: "Back after a brief hiatus! Social media breaks are good for you. I fingerboard once a week and For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www. Parents should keep regular records of street wear and climbing shoes size to monitor normal foot development in young climbers. Crucially, Beta Balm works impressively well at moisturising hands and leaving them feeling nice for a good period of time. 4K 162K views 2 years ago #climbingtraining #trainclimbsendrepeat #doctorofphysicaltherapy There was no injury incident so I think it's the result of over training. com/finger-tool 馃┕ $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www. Recovery Blueprint™ Your complete path to injury recovery in a single app. com/finger-tool馃┕ $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www. 83INTRO As climbing has progressed in popularity and difficulty, climbers have been able to pull off incredible new moves that were once considered impossible. There’s a slight downclimb moment in the beginning that requires good body Eva Lopez and Dr. I should plan these more often Just a nice crimp line on the 45° wall @ The Cliffs Gowanus. Jared Vagy “The Climbing Doctor,” is a doctor of physical therapy and an experienced climber, has devoted his career and studies to climbing-related injury prevention, orthopedics, and movement science. These are mostly open chain exercises (meaning the most distal part of the body is not connected to a stable force such as the ground) but we will also introduce some closed chain exercises (the most distal part of the body is connected to a Fix Wrist Pain with Decompression & 3 Stretches How to Relieve Carpal Tunnel Pain in SECONDS What Science ACTUALLY Says About Trigger Points & Myofascial Pain From Hooper's Beta, Flex Discover The Beta, your ultimate destination for innovative climbing training rooted in strength. The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: https://www. Vagy touch on specific injury prevention concerns that are relevant to all climbers and especially those who engage in systematic training. If you encounter an issue, please use the contact form at the bottom of the page. Jan 17, 2023 路 Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The goal of the four-phase system is to take fl Discussion: This review presents several risk factors which appear to increase the risk of overuse injury in climbers. These activities can result in traumatic or overuse-related injuries to one or more of the following tissues: The biceps femoris The iliotibial band or ITB The lateral meniscus The lateral collateral What type of injuries do you treat? While I’m passionate about treating climbing-related injuries, my expertise doesn’t stop there. Enhance your skills with expert guidance, state-of-the-art facilities. There are actual changes in the way that the regions of the brain (especially the parietal and occipital lobes as well as the pathways involved with MI training), receive and "Rock Climbing Beta to Reduce the Risk of Injury" by Caitlin Hume Recover faster from climbing injuries with Rock Climbing Injury Rehabilitation at The Beta PT in Gaithersburg, MD. In this video we lay a basic foundation for how to respond to an injury while climbing. 20Intro: In this episode we break down Shoulder Impingement Syndrome. Because once you know the grade or severity of the injury, you can then determine how best to treat it. How do we suffer a compression injury? Mar 31, 2020 路 Hooper's Beta Ep. According to the research literature, fnger injuries are the number one culprit, with A2 pulley injuries being the most common. 21What is a TFCC Injury? (00:30) A TFCC injury is an injury which Involves possible tears of the fibrocartilage articular disc and the tissue that connects the disc to the triquetrum and other carpals. Ideally also find a way to not cut feet! This was the 3rd attempt, 2nd session. Nov 6, 2024 路 Ultimately if you can address the stressors in your life, you’re less likely to be injured in the first place and you’re more likely to recover faster from injury if it does happen. Feb 24, 2025 路 Hooper’s Beta Ep. Oct 28, 2020 路 Hooper’s Beta Ep. I have over a decade of experience with all sorts of orthopedic conditions – from post-op knees to finicky shoulders and everything in between. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The first section is slightly overhung. Beta Balm has a fairly strong smell when it’s first applied, but this fades quickly. Hooper's Beta is built by climbers, for climbers (of all types). Surprisingly not bad, just gotta keep moving so you don’t run out of gas. #1: Weak FDP The biggest anatomical risk factor is a direct lack of strength of the FDP muscles themselves. We will go deep into understanding pain science and how to USE that knowledge to rehab our injuries. What type of injuries do you treat? While I’m passionate about treating climbing-related injuries, my expertise doesn’t stop there. com/ Stay injury-free with tailored rock climbing injury prevention programs at The Beta PT in Gaithersburg, MD. We discuss some ways to test it yourself, symptoms you may experience, and some initial treatment to try. com I've seen traumatic injuries in bouldering and ropes. com was written by Dr. 150Introduction The A4 pulley is the second most commonly injured pulley in climbers, right behind the infamous A2. Strength and conditioning, load management, and climbing technique could be targeted in injury prevention programs, to enhance the health and wellbeing of climbing athletes. We talk about what it is, some brief anatomy, mechanisms of injury and risks, testing, and finally, treatment. Mar 31, 2020 路 Climbing technique: Climbing with your arms always bent or with your legs always straight and/or not using your feet well will lead to increased strain/stress on the bicep tendon and can over time lead to this pathology. This makes them more prone to injury due to an inability to handle the strain and stress placed upon them while climbing. 2,395 Followers, 1,982 Following, 115 Posts - WAX aka Alex (@waxbeta) on Instagram: "Recovering from ankle injury馃懀 Focus: functional strength + technique, educational videos Goal: no injuries in 2023鈽猴笍 馃椇: @waximus" Injury Assessment Tool For rock climbing related finger injuries GET AN INJURY-SPECIFIC RECOVERY PROGRAM HERE By using this tool, you agree to our terms and conditions. An indoor rock climber was making it look easy, swinging from rock to rock when he seems to lose his grip and falls hard on his foot, breaking the bone through the skin and falling completely off. May 7, 2021 路 Hooper’s Beta Ep. And, to me, static climbing is the most aesthetic! Slow, graceful movement makes for a lyrical dance on the wall. 61Intro In this special episode, Dr. This may involve any of the following: Ulnocarpal ligaments (ulnolunate, ulnotriquetral), Radioulnar ligaments (palmar radioulnar ligament, dorsal radioulnar ligament So let’s take a deeper look at each of those grading criteria so that you have a better understanding of the injury. ” A step-by-step rehabilitation and injury prevention system designed specifically for rock climbers. Apr 8, 2025 路 The pain recedes and the dopamine flows. This blog post explores common finger and wrist injuries in climbing, including their causes, symptoms, prevention strategies, and management options. Do y’all want to see the #alternatebeta? Or someone else do it and post :) ~In Daytona Beach for the week, might find a climbing gym~ | WAX aka Alex More Home Live Reels Shows Explore Jun 2, 2025 路 Shameless plug: if you want to save yourself the time of figuring out your recovery and get started on the program I’ve used to help tons of climbers get back to 100% from this exact injury, check out our highly affordable Recovery Blueprints, available on our website for a variety of common climbing injuries with more in active development. Jan 22, 2025 路 Climbing is an exhilarating sport that challenges both the body and mind. hoopersbeta. He authored the Amazon best-selling book Climb Injury-Free, and is a frequent contributor to Climbing Magazine. com) and is about a climbing warm-up that can be done in less than 10 minutes. Whether it’s because I was just recovering from a big injury, or had taken many months off for PT, I was always not 149 likes, 4 comments - waxbeta on July 13, 2022: "It’s Wednesday again! That means time for a voiceover, right? Woiceover Wednesday or something? Here’s a really cool comp-style climb鈿★笍 in two distinct traversing sections @ The Cliffs Gowanus; I would grade it a V4-V5. James Lee and myself come up with our independent lists of the top 3 reasons why climbers keep getting hand injuries. It can also cause soft tissue damage and potentially lead to bone conditions such as arthritis. 3K Jun 1, 2021 路 Hooper’s Beta Ep. I got a lumbrical injury on a long climbing road trip, didn't really stop climbing. com/recoverybmore Finger Flexor Tenosynovitis in Rock Climbers (Causes, Diagnosis, Treatment) Hooper's Beta 132K subscribers 2. It was a bad injury that affected my training and overall satisfaction with climbing. Tenosynovitis, or inflammation of the finger flexor tendon sheath (synovium), is a common Aug 26, 2023 路 Importance of beta in climbing Beta plays a crucial role in climbing as it can greatly enhance a climber’s overall performance. These activities can result in traumatic or overuse-related injuries to one or more of the following tissues: The biceps femoris The iliotibial band or ITB The lateral meniscus The lateral collateral Hooper's Beta is built by climbers, for climbers (of all types). 3K How to Fix Anterior Knee Pain for Rock Climbers (Front Knee Pain) • 19K views 3 years ago Jan 17, 2018 路 However, today we're excited to share a piece Nicholas Kuhl wrote for us about his road to recovery after a traumatic back injury. Common Climbing Injuries Finger Pulley Tears These are among the most Jun 3, 2020 路 A2 pulley rehab, education on injury, anatomy, prevention, and more. 22Intro: In this video we cover some introductory wrist stability exercises which can be used to recover from or prevent an injury. Taking and Analyzing Risks with The Climbing Doctor Climb Injury Free Part 2 and 3 – Strength and Movement How to Heal and Prevent Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain 4-Step Pyramid for Healing Shoulder and other Injuries: Apr 22, 2024 路 April 22, 2024 Trivia: Did you know finger flexor pulley injuries are among the most common climbing injuries, coming in at an estimated 33% of all rock climbing injuries?1,2 Additionally, it is almost exclusively a rock climbing-specific injury, as it often requires crimping forces, which are not typical during everyday activities. It feels like things will never get better when you get injured, but I promise you they will, and I wish everyone an injury-free year! Sep 14, 2020 路 We’re going to find out how to FINALLY fix that lingering hand or finger injury you got months ago from climbing that “ just won’t heal ”. Create a Training Program for YourselfLearn the 4 fundamentals of program creation in this FREE 4-day email mini-course and have a fully built program by the end. The book features the “Rock Rehab Pyramid. 104Lateral knee pain from climbing-related activities is common due to the high stresses we impose on our legs while heel hooking, high stepping, hiking, and of course falling. If you’re a climber, chances are you have either had a finger injury, or at least you know someone who has had one. Jun 1, 2021 路 What No One Tells You About Climbing On Pockets (Pocket Injury) Hooper's Beta 132K subscribers 1. However, the physical demands of climbing can lead to injuries if proper precautions aren't taken. #2: Weak Shoulders Lack of strength in the Has injury prevented you from climbing harder? Whether you’re a professional athlete or a novice climber, “Climb Injury-Free” is the guide that will teach you how to climb stronger and pain-free. Sign up below […] Started climbing moderately hard again, ticking off most of my gyms V3s and a couple of soft V5s while projecting mainly fours and fives. I climbed my first 13a like a week after the injury. Sypeland’s is made in Yorkshire and developed with climbing sessions on the area’s rough Creating the world's largest library of free training and injury rehab videos for rock climbers! Conclusions Providers should consider the use of a PRO as a protective orthosis for rock climbing patients with a low-grade A2 pulley injury who want to continue rock climbing while they are healing. Injury in climbing is hard and returning from injury is harder still. Creating the world's largest library of free training and injury rehab videos for rock climbers! Dec 12, 2023 路 Introduction: Climbing is an increasingly popular activity and imposes specific physiological demands on the human body, which results in unique injury presentations. Basically, you need to look at it all. I decided to ultimately tone Signs and Symptoms Pain typically comes on within minutes or hours after a climbing session, or acutely while climbing. com/// Support the channel by s Feb 14, 2018 路 - Wearing restrictive climbing shoes increases risk of foot injuries and deformities. com/ The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: https://www. And lately, one of those prices has been the rise of an injury Remember from the previous post how I had surgery October 2015? I tried to go back to climbing March 2016, but failed the surgery spectacularly. But did you know that there are different ways to hold a pocket, and those ways affect how much force you can exert through your fingers and how likely you are to cause an injury? Did you know there are safe ways to train pockets to help reduce an injury? If you did know that Feb 23, 2014 路 Score: 29 Ingredients: water, coconut oil, almond oil, cocoa butter, sunflower oil, St John’s Wort oil, comfrey oil, marigold oil, essential oils of clove, tea tree, lavender, myrrh, sterol alcohol, emulsifying wax, tween, parabens and vitamin E. Jan 24, 2015 路 This is relatively good for a climbing balm. And lately, one of those prices has been the rise of an injury Collateral Ligament Injury from Rock Climbing (Causes & Fix) Hooper's Beta 133K subscribers Subscribe How injury affects our brains: Now let’s talk about how MI can help rehab from injury more efficiently. 86INTRODUCTION Pockets are notorious for causing climbing injuries, especially in the lumbricals. Proven programs that have helped hundreds of climbers beat their injuries Return to climbing sooner and stronger for about the cost of a Netflix subscription Available for most common climbing-related finger injuries, with more in active development Jan 23, 2025 路 Most climbers have probably never heard of this injury, yet thanks to the power of ultrasound, we can now identify it as one of the most common afflictions that I see, causing discomfort, pain, and even weakness in climbers’ fingers. And go Rock Climbing Injuries: What We Treat at The Beta PT in Gaithersburg, MD Are you a passionate rock climber feeling held back by nagging pain or a recent injury? You’re not alone. Remember from the previous post how I had surgery October 2015? I tried to go back to climbing March 2016, but failed the surgery spectacularly. 锔廏yms: The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: https://www. 227 likes, 12 comments - waxbeta on July 12, 2022: "Everything is different outdoors . A2 Pulley Injuries: Everything Climbers Need to Know (STRAINS, TEARS, & SURGERY) 鈽濓笍 FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www. While flexor tendon tenosynovitis can have a rapid onset from a single hard day or training session, it is most common with an increase in training volume, or from consistent overuse. There are two main types of injuries as well, a compression injury vs an extension injury (overstretching the ligaments). Apparently my joints aren’t very sensitive? I was able to ignore the pain and get my first V4. At The Beta PT, we understand the unique challenges faced by climbers like you. . zkoooanwmohkpesiqysuljkenxtlhukeskffuqxziulwdxexfz